Have you tried the CKP sensor? Its a common problem on 95+ KL's. Has the "not-starting" problems like the 93s. Easy and cheaper fix though. You probably know what to do. Just go to the plug near the timing belt area and wiggle the pins on the harness so they contact better. PT should have some more thorough instuctions on how to do it. When I did mine, I just replaced the whole damn thing instead. But its not necessary, but its a bitch to run it behind the bracket to avoid rubbing on the pulleys and belts. Not a hard job, just a frustrating one.

Try wiggling the 6th pin on the 6pin harness that connects to the disty. Its a ground, but its extremely important that its connected or your ecu won't give the "signal" to fire. Also That wire goes to the 8 wire ground point on the upper tranny mount. Make sure its not cut or if its on a bad ground.

There is indeed a "crank angle sensor" but the shop manual is not clear as to where it is; only where the electrical connector is for it. The shop manual shows a grey electrical connector with blue, red, white, and green wires coming out of it, located somewhere near the distriubtor. Follow the wires and you should be able to find it.

First of all, check and see which distributor you have and what reference your shop is using. If you have the newer distributor w/ID#T0T57271, the wiring diagram in the 95 service manual is completely wrong or at least very misleading. 4 of the 6 wires on the 6 pin disty connector are swapped and there's the absence of the CKP1 sensor. 

I just went through this chase for a good week and learned a bit about our systems. 

Here are some ideas to figure out what is working ....that seems to be an easier route. 

For arguments sake, lets say the six wires on the plug at the disty are A through F......F being the firewall side. 

A= Ground 
B= 12 V + 
C= Empty (old CKP1 wire) 
D= "G" signal 5V+ for Camshaft sensor 
E= Ground 
F= Ignition Module Signal 5V+ 

Use a pin type LED voltage light (found at walmart) and a sewing needle to check the following is working. You should use an LED type because the diode only allows voltage to pass one way....protecting the PCM. It's a tiny red light with a ground clamp and sharp pin to stab wires while still connected. 

1)Verify there is 12 volts + on the "B" terminal first. This provides the trigger voltage for the camshaft hall effect sensor. 

2)Verify with ignition on that there is 5V + at the "D" wire. 

3)Ground the LED test light and stab the "A" wire. Crank the vehicle and watch for the LED to blink once on every rotation of the crank. This verifys the camshaft sensor circuit is working. 

4)With everything plugged in, ground the LED light's ground wire and stab the "F" wire. Crank the vehicle and watch to see the light blink quickly for every fire of a cylinder. This proves the transistor in the module is functioning and the PCM is providing a firing signal. 

Now move to the 3 wire disty connector further back. This is where I think you'll find the problem. There are 3 wires....a 12V + ignition power, the tach trigger and a signal wire for the PCM data link connector. 

Unplug the connector and find which wire is the 12V ignition wire. There will only be power at one wire in this 3 pin connector with the ignition on. Once this is clear, plug it back in and check for voltage on the other two wires with the ignition on.

The power flows out the ignition wire through the primary coil winding and back to the two other pins for signal to the PCM data link connector and Tach. When the ignition module fires, the transistor gets a 5V positive signal from the computer (line "F")that grounds the primary coil voltage to the ground "E" in the six pin connector. This makes the voltage on the Data Link Connector and Tach wire disappear. This voltage pulse on the 3 pin connector is required for the car to start and run. It's used as a substitute for the missing CKP1 sensor in later models. 

If your coil had a thermal short.....when it's cold, it might not be passing a full 12V through the primary winding to the Data Link line and the Tach line on the 3 pin connector, which would not give the "fired" signal to the PCM. I could not get my car to give injector pulse even though there was spark if power didn't properly pass through these wires. 

This would also explain the weak spark if there is low or no continuity in the coil. 

Also, if you have a firing signal as in #4 above, you don't need to consider the CKP2 sensor at the pulley. This signal is what triggers the firing circuit in the disty. If it's not working, the PCM won't fire the 5V on the "F" wire to ground out the coil. 

You could check the CKP2 sensor for resistance and shorts, but it's useless if you have PCM trigger pulse at the disty. 

Basically, I'm thinking if all the trigger pulses show up at the disty, the coil is bad. 

Feel free to email me at eric@leska.org or post here with questions or clarifications on anything.